Tag Archives: couple

canyonlands national park ~ southern utah


if you want to skip ahead, there is a slideshow and an audio recording of tim talking about why he loves the needles district of canyonlands national park with such intensity. however, if you are willing to wait, and you want to read the story of how tim and i almost lost our lives in this unbelievably beautiful corner of the world, continue on.

the first big trip that tim and i took was in 2006. we caught amtrak’s lakeshore limited from springfield to chicago. we got off the train long enough to have a quick lunch with my chicago besties, wenner, freddie and m, and then we boarded the southwest chief and headed down towards albuquerque.

anyway, it was a long trip and very eventful. (ask tim about his relationship with our traincar attendant and why it was so awkward…seriously it’s worth it). after many adventures involving a tiny hyundai that we got from alamo rental and my first introduction to tim’s sister katja, we found ourselves entering canyonlands national park . what with all of our dilly-dallying in moab, we got a much later start than we had intended. still, it was a beautiful day, sunny and brisk, and we were very excited to be out on the trail.

you should know that it was march, and that winter still had a firm grip on the canyonlands. with the full sun pouring down on us, it was very comfortable for hiking, but in the slot canyons or in the shade, the air was brisk, edged with cold. we hiked up through the first pass and entered elephant canyon. a barely believable landscape passed around us; red sandstone spires giving way to wide sage-dotted plains, twisted bodies of junipers, and bright porcelain sky. we followed the dry bed of elephant creek, stair-stepping on god-sized risers of perfectly formed granite. and then we arrived at druid arch . for those of you who followed that link, i know, right? it’s beautiful! supposedly, it’s called druid arch because it looks like a celtic rune.

tim and i hung out at the arch for a good long while, taking photos and exploring the nooks and crannies along the canyon. then we continued on, making our way slowly to chesler park. we stopped at a grand overlook and ate our meager picnic lunch. we watched the sun began to settle towards the horizon. when we consulted the map, a slow horror began to creep into our consciousness. we had an 8-mile hike back to the parking lot and about 2 hours of sunlight to do it. this, through fairly demanding terrain, the path trailing up and around sandstone spires, disappearing into slot canyons, and climbing from the desert floor up through layers of geologic time. we checked our daypack and discovered that we only had one headlamp. the layers that we had brought along, which had felt so substantial in the noonday sun, began to feel meager and thin. we had no emergency blanket, no more food, and not a whole lot of water.

our pace quickened. the sun’s rays began to diffuse behind a layer of purple clouds crowding the horizon. darkness spread, swallowing the shadows like a rising tide. we decided to hike as long as possible without the aid of the headlamp. we had no idea how long the batteries would last and once we started relying on its light, we would be fully dependent on it. in the azure light of dusk, the path remained barely visible in our sensitized retinae; a pale ribbon twisting between the variegated darkness of plant life and cryptobiotic soil.

as if toying with us, the sky began to spit down a cold rain. lightning played on the horizon, illuminating what looked like a massive storm front heading towards us. my adrenaline addled mind began to frantically pursue possible outcomes. would we survive if we were forced to spend the night out in the wilds? would hypothermia claim us? would sharing body heat be sufficient? would anyone know we were still out here, scared and rushing heedlessly through the darkness?

eventually, the trail led us onto an undulating rock floor and then disappeared in its constant, monochrome surface. from here, our only guides were tiny, widely spaced cairns that stitched their way through a landscape made treacherous by sudden dropoffs and unexpected chasms. in the failing light, the cairns were all but invisible. we stumbled on, terrified of losing our way. the cold rain intensified. we turned on the headlamp and began casting about in the darkness, searching for the trail markers. when one of us couldn’t find the next one, the other would take the lead. slowly, in this staggering, frightened way, we continued on.

my memory began playing tricks on me. were we going in circles? had we rejoined the path that first led us into elephant canyon? finally, just as i was about to suggest that we stop and try to find a place to shelter for the night, we crested a low rise. tim shone the headlamp into the blankness ahead and uttered a cry of relief. he had seen the hyundai’s reflectors shining in the lamp’s pale beam. we had made it back to the parking lot!

giddy with relief, we hurried to the car and got in. somehow, the simple act of closing the doors made us feel safer. we hugged and high-fived, congratulating ourselves on surviving the ordeal. the awareness of how tenuous our situation had been came crashing down. if we had begun to bicker or lay blame, if we had taken one wrong step, one of us could have twisted an ankle or fallen and broken a leg. or worse. we could have lost the path and ended up wandering aimlessly, searching for a path that wasn’t there. we could have been soaked by the coming rain and succumbed to exposure or hypothermia. giddiness was replaced by wonder. how had we escaped unscathed?

as we left the park, a strange, almost surreal series of events taught us the price of our survival. in the few miles separating our parking space from a generous bed and a comfortable night waiting for us in bluff, ut a total of 14 desert hares streaked out of the darkness and sacrificed themselves to the hyundai. by way of comparison, in the entire 1 year and 4 months of this endless road trip, we have killed exactly zero animals. that night, we killed 14; the last of which lay down in front of us just as we turned into the sleeping town of bluff; just as tim uttered the words, “well at least we aren’t going to kill any more rabbits.”

in this sad way, we learned how much the canyonlands required in order to spare our puny human lives.

our latest visit to the canyonlands was much less eventful. we enjoyed a beautiful day with pati and andy, marveled at the incredible beauty of this sublime landscape, and made it back to our campsite without injury or loss of animal life. the canyonlands had accepted our sacrifice.


the cumbres and toltec tourist railway ~ chama to antonito, new mexico


for those of you who haven’t yet realized, tim loves trains. loves them. i’ve asked him lots of questions, trying to understand what it is about this particular mode of transportation that has so completely captured his imagination, but as far as i can tell, it’s something he was born with. there was no particular moment, no particular experience that ignited his love of trains, the fascination was simply always there.

i on the other hand, grew up feeling nothing for trains. an old depot or an abandoned spur line, in my opinion, held little to enthrall or delight. in fact, i think i would have been hard pressed to even identify an old depot or an abandoned spur line. a typical scene from the early days of our journey found tim wandering happily through some railyard or another while i sat in the truck playing scrabble on my ipod and waiting impatiently for the fever to break.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

i might not have shared his enthusiasm and his siblings might have made fun of him for it, but despite our nonstop ribbing and the very grudente (portuguese for sticky or clingy) label of train freak, tim’s love of all things railroad has remained unchanged. “it’s one of my happy places,” he says. “i’m not going to spend time apologizing for that.” to that i say good for him! for even if i didn’t fully understand or relate to this “happy place” of which he speaks, his love of trains has brought me to many remarkable places and provided me many unforgettable experiences. without his love of trains, i probably would never have been aboard the empire builder as it sped through the winter or watched julia and julia in the pacific parlor car while the full moon shone above. i would probably have never ridden the hiawatha rail trail or experienced this .

and that would have been a small tragedy, because the cumbres and toltec is an amazing and beautiful thing. pulled by a beautiful old steam engine, the train follows miles of narrow gauge track over mountains, along rivers, across bridges, and through tunnels. the winding, twisty passage crosses the colorado-new mexico border 11 times! and if that’s not enough joy, midway through the journey, the train stops in osier, co and passengers are provided with an all you can eat buffet made up of all your holiday favorites: turkey with stuffing, cranberry sauce, meatloaf, macaroni and cheese, various vegetables, mashed potatoes, and of course, salad and dessert bars. a full day train ride through beautiful landscapes and punctuated by a sumptuous thanksgiving dinner? honestly, what could be better?

tim and i rode the cumbres and toltec in june of 2009. a few months short of a year later, in april 2010,we returned to chama on our way to see tim’s sister — and her now fiancee — in telluride, co. the trains weren’t running yet and the april light still held the chill of winter. the three of us wandered the quiet railyard retelling stories of our ride and examining various rail cars. as i stopped to take the umpteenth picture of the evening, i found myself wistfully suggesting another trip on the ol’ cumbres and toltec. tim looked at me, surprise written on his face. and with that, the truth was irrevocably revealed: the ranks of train freaks has grown by one. namely me.

so go ahead and make fun. tim’s a train freak, i’m a train freak and this pretty awesome dude is a train freak, and one day — maybe not today and maybe not this year — you’ll wake up and realize that you’re a train freak too. they’re just that cool.

Posted by Wordmobi